1989 Dodge D100

Ok, I don't know a whole lot here so cut me a little slack, anyway, I have a couple questions.
1.) Ok Whats the difference Between DTCs, DBRs and OBD codes?
- I don't have a scanner at this point because I'm broke and just used the old turn it on and off and count the blinks method.
- My manual Mentions a DBRII scanner is this different then OBDII?
2.) Will a scanner benefit me any more then the chart I have in my Chilton manual about the DTCs
- Using the method I just described I got codes 12 and 13.
+ 12 - None - direct battery input to PCM was disconnected within the last 50 key-on cycles
+ 13 - No change in MAP from Start to Run - No difference recognized between the engine MAP reading and the barometric pressure reading at start up.
++ Also states that 13 should make the "Check Engine Light" light during operation but it doesn't.
3.) Any ideas about what I should do?

You're van is too old for OBD2. Ignore the first code, it normally means the battery was disconnectted, focus on the no change in map dtc, it may be a bad map sensor, bad tps, vaccum leak, how does the van run? how many inches of vaccum is the engine making at idle? A drb11 is a scan tool that the Dodge dealer used to use on the old trucks and was replaced after with the drb111 and so on. Im not sure the abbreviation of DBR's maybe what some call a breakout box. Does the check engine light bulb come on when the key is first turned on? if not it may be removed or burnt out? A scanner is always more of a benefit then not having one but it's only as good as the operators ability to interpret the data it gives you. Most of the time you don't need it for anything except speed on the older vehicles.

Ok,
-It's a short bed pickup 2wd V6 3.9L fuel injected
1.) How it Runs - it idles normally then it will drop down like it is an inch for dying, rev up high (but not like its racing) then come back to normal, or rev up and come down to normal or drop then come to normal. There doesn't seem to be a real concrete pattern to it. I took it around the block and it was like it is getting gas in spurts. It won't go then it will accelerate then die off again without actually dying.
2.)Inches of Vacuum at idle (I don't know where to test this) - I don't honestly don't know. I don't have a vacuum gauge or a hand vacuum pump. I did take the hose off the MAP valve though and it did feel like it had a fair amount of suction, though I do not know how much it should have.
3.)The check engine light does work, it comes on when the key is in the "on" position and goes off then the engine is started. (that is how i got the codes)

A little more info on the problem - it started on Thursday morning . Wednesday it was fine (no noticeable problem). I first noticed it on Friday while stopped at some road construction and it it felt like it was trying to take off when I had the brake held down. On my lunch break is when I really noticed it, it felt like it wanted to die then rev up to normal (approx. 4.5 hours later then the road construction and it had worsened by the time I got off that night around 9 hours later, like it wanted to die then accelerate and cut out))

I changed the fuel filter.
I checked the PCV valve. It rattled when disconnected from the engine and hose, and it hissed when connected to the hose and the engine was running. I did pull the air filter off the other side of the engine and did the paper test that my manual mentioned and it did hold the paper down but it did not suck it down as forceful as the manual lead me to believe.


misc. info - It starts real easy, even after it died.

I do appreciate the help, if I don't figure this out or have a shop fix it, I'll be walking clear across town and back to work everyday.

It sounds like a Map sensor issue! If it has an egr valve on the intake try removing the vaccum line to it and see how the truck runs.

Ok, I went home for labor day so I haven't had time to do anything.
- I was thinking during the drive that the MAP sensor DTC I got probably came from when I started the engine when I disconnected the hose to see if there was a vacuum.
- When I bought the truck I was given a folder with all the work done to it in the past so, I took a look at it and found out that in '02 the EGR solenoid had been replaced and in '06 the EGR valve had been replaced. So I took the valve off and looked at it. The gasket seemed to be Ok. The only damage to it was along the edge, but that follows the contour of the engine (not sandwiched between both parts). I scraped some crud off around the holes on the valve and engine (made the hole about and 1/8 of an inch bigger) and sprayed it with some carburetor cleaner. That really didn't seem to help.

-I'm going to head to Autozone tomorrow and see if they have a hand vacuum pump they can loan me so I can correctly test the MAP Sensor and EGR valve. If that doesn't lead me anywhere I'm going to the shop.

Well Autozone didn't have one so I just took it to a shop.