Please help me! P0134 P0154

I have a 2.7 dodge intrepid-2001. I have been having two codes-PO134 & PO154 for quite some time.I changed the O2 sensors last night, left battery disconnected one hour,then proceeded to drive about 2 miles. Car sputtered and stalled and is virtually undrivable now.Still have the same codes too. Car is over due for inspection and registration is expired. Had to pay the state 281.00 yesterday for the penalty-need to get the car legal. Can anyone help me?

which O2's, all 4? how much mileage on the intrepid? what other work has been done to it?

Thanks for replying,Jeff. I am Jeff too. Both precatalyst. Never had any other problems with it except for three years ago the front end was wrecked and pretty much every thing was replaced.(9,000 in damage). 116,000 miles on it now,when wrecked it had approximately 60,000. Had an EGR code(PO401) before I replaced the stuck open PCV valve. Code stayed off since( about 1000 miles ago). Why would the car behave this way only after a replaced the o2s?

I work at a chrysler dealer in Ontario Canada, see alot of intrepids for alot of things, not so much that code exactly, I question why replacing the pcv valve fixed the EGR code because Egr failure is more common on the 2.7 because it's an electronic valve and gets carbonned up quite frequently, check all the fuses in the fuse panels, might have a blown fuse for the heater circuit in the fuse panel or wiring issues are quite common as well around the bellhousing, especially after tranny work.
all the other usual things are good right like fuel pressure, spark plugs
clean throttle blade etc,. I'm still leaning towards the egr valve or a converter fialure but pretty rare to get 2 cats go down at the same time,
Some times changing upstream O2's without the downstreams can pull other codes because the rear are too lazy in relation to the frt and the pcm is tricked into thinking the cat's are worn out. recheck your wiring and fuses and get back to me

Jeff C

Checked fuses-all are fine. Wires seem to be fine,as far as I can see. Although, it has been quite a while since the spark plugs have been changed. I wouldn't know how to check fuel pressure.

what brand of O2 sensors were they? Some aftermarket seem to be questionable, checking fuel pressure requires a gauge and a hose that will thread onto the test port at the fuel rail or at the tank in the fuel line.
when you say wiring looks fine be sure that the 4 wire connectors at the
o2 sennors are actually getting voltage for the heater circuits and be sure that the fuses actually have power and ground and are not just visually good, You might require a scanner or more tools to fix this yourself, I'd still like to check the EGR valve if I had it here to work on because often times they won't give an egr code but still be stuck open or closed. At this point I'd recommend having a good mechanic look it over to see if there's anything obvious that I cna't see from here that might be giving you those codes

good luck and keep me postted


Jeff

They are from the dodge dealer-mopar(new, supposedly). Had a diagnostic scan today-still reading the o2 codes as the issue. I put the old ones back in so I could drive it- funny, it runs fine now. Where might I go to have those "new" sensors checked and can they be checked while off the vehicle? I have never found a good mechanic in all my 39 years. So tired of this issue draining my account and nerves.

by running fine you mean the lights off? codes gone? I doubt the dealer installed used o2 sensors, I don't know of a wrecking yard that would sell them too us! I'm still leanning toward either a wiring issue on that circuit or else the O2 sesnors are doing there job and telling you that something else upstrream is defective causing the fuel mixture too be wrong, ie
egr valve, vaccum leak etc, . If the O2's are less then a year old then they should be under warranty, although if you installed them yourself I'm not sure, As for your complaint of being unable to find a good mechanic in 39 years you're either looking in the wrong places, at prices instead of quality or you've got unreal expectations, the nature of this whole industry is that of dislike, disrespect and distrust towards technicans. You wouldn't believe the problems we're having finding qualified people to train as techs. Every one who's ever removed a tire themselves thinks they can do my job but when those same people get an issue they can't fix they don't want to pay me to find it. Today's modern vehicle has more complex electronics installed then most high end homes and yet I don't know of a plumber or a roofer who works for as little money as I'm paid. Anyway that's enough of a rant on that subject, If you still want to try and resolve this intrepid issue then keep me postted

Remember what I said though about downstream O2's being lazy after new upstream have been installed,

recheck your codes in a few days after running through some drive cycles
and let me know what you get

cheers

Jeff

Same codes are here for the same o2 sensors,I have the old ones back on now. As for the new ones, they both have an ink marked dot on them for some reason.
I have an expectation of a mechanic only to be honest with me, so I suppose every single one I have had experiences with have been in the wrong place. I certainly was not trying to undermine you.

Would a diagnostic pinpoint my problem?

Yeah a diagnostic test should help shed some light on your issue assuming the guy on the other end of the scanner can interpret what he's reading. Be preparred for somewhat of a bill though. If replacing both sensors haven't cured it then you're ruling out something that they are going to have to recheck anyway. I've seen lots of parts intalled incorrectly, missed wiring connectors, grounds etc that all have lead to repeat dtcs after customers worked on there own car. Give the service advisor/mechanic as much information as you can about what codes, when etc and be patient. The last thing any mechanic wants to hear is how much of an expert the customer thinks he is, I've seen so many problems not fixed because the customer tried to do the diagnostics themselves. We get swayed and led in the wrong direction when the customer comes in like that, here's hoping your mechanic is familiar with both intrepids and your car and looks at it with an open mind. Be sure they check the EGR position with the scanner and cover the basics before looking for more parts to change. Often times when An intrepid is involved in a frt end collision you get wiring damaged under the rad,

good luck and keep me postted


Jeff

You were correct all along- mydealer service center scan my car and found that the wiring harness was not replaced new as the body shop stated and charged in 2003. Major electrical problems is the diagnostic, but still dontquite understand why the symptoms are primarily reflecting emission problems. 300.00 to trace circuitry and 1600.00 to replace harness, if needed. The DMV inspector doesnt believe the mechanic and wants me to replace the o2s and egr to satisfy the 200.00 minimum requirement to repair emeissions in n.c. He states that wiring will not cause false codes to be thrown. If I am going to spend a dime, I am going to put it towards the problem! Just dont know what to do about it now-I am in desparate need of this vehicle and the DMV is giving me this run around thats only going to cost me money and not fix the wiring problem. Any suggestions at this point? Again, I thank you for all your advice and help.

wiring won't cause false codes to be thrown!!! More codes are wiring problems then sensor failures!!! especially on those cars at least from my experience anyway. Is he recommendind replacing the 2 downstream sensors or the upstream again. I'd doubt you require the whole harness, I've fixed quite a few of them, never had to replace the whole thing. Look around where the car was hit and check for any corrosion, often times you cut open the loom on those and water will run out so don't be alarmed if you see any, it just means you're on the right track, If I was in your shoes I'd have them fix the wiring problems as per there diagnosis, if the dealer says the egr is switching positions when it's supposed to then you're probably fine in that regards, they should warranty there work so I'd try that, unless you want to attempt the back 2 O2 sensors yourself.

good luck and keep me postted

Jeff

No water, but one of the headlights has continuously held moisture since the wreck. Also, there is ALOT of corrosion on top of the battery-not at the terminals, but below alot of the wiring. The DMV inspector wants me to replace the upstream sensors and egr that is causing the particular codes. He refuses to listen to the mechanic that states the wiring is causing the codes. I will take it back to the dealer service center and let you know what happens.
Thank you again.

so is there still an egr code?

Yes, but this code PO406 (different than in the beginning, it WAS PO401,then remember I changed the PCV and replaced the torn pcv hose and PO401 went out)only came up after we cleaned the EGR tubes of carbon. The dealer said all emission components were functioning properly. Freaky things are happening-Lights on dash flash on and off-the oil light,the blocks surround all PRNDL3L then just surround the D, the check engine light flashes on and off, and the dealer said he had a hard time geting the scanner to communicate with the car-had to hold wires a certain way.