p0341 cam sensors vs O2 sensors

I have a 97 camaro with the 3.8 ltr. I recently have had codes for the egr, maf, and cam sensor code 341. I changed out the egr, maf, and cam sensor. The egr and maf codes are gone, but the cam code 341 still comes back after about 5-8 miles when the car stumbles and gags, it then recovers for a short period, but stumbles hard and gags again and I limp home. Once cooled down for quite awhile its good for a bit but then starts the routine again. I have read all the advice in the forum and have checked out the fuse, connector, wire routing, and such. I can only feel inside, not see, where the cam sensor fits into the block. All seems normal. The car will idle and rev great in the driveway for as long as you want and run like a champ for that first 5-8 miles, but then the problems and code come back. It seems like the same issues as when a bad O2 sensor's data is sent back to the computer and it starts to make adjustments after the car has reached normal op temp.
Can this be happening without an O2 code coming up? I don't want to spend the money on new O2 sensors and still have this same problem.
thanks for the help.

Check you Catalytic Converter, I will not be surprised is clogged.

If the cat is clogged or bad, wouldn't the downstream O2 senser code come up?

Not always. I stated here before in the forum about a 01 3.4V6 Grand Am with a similar issue that you have, it was the Cat. Once I replaced it, the car came back to life.

The O2 sensor after the Cat does nothing for the fuel trimming, all it does tells the PCM if the Cat is working ok, but no all the times tells is good or bad.

A bad Cat can give...
1 ) EGR errors
2 ) Multiple / Random Misfires or just one cylinder
3 ) Slight Over Temp, like 210~220
4 ) Low power
5 ) No Top End (engine stalls on some RPM, like would not pass 5,000 or 4,356 or some like that)
6 ) Transmission works erratic
7 ) Could have Rough Idle
8 ) Rattles or some kind of weird noises on the exhaust (gargling)
9 ) Exhaust Smells weird
10 ) Water Dripping from the Tail Pipe (my car did)
11 ) MAP Sensor not working right.

All of them or combination of it.

Catalytic Converters does not fail on its own. Some makes it fail, they are fragile in a way.

If you car burns oil, excess fuel or coolant leaks can destroy the converter.

What happens is the gases are trapped killing the ignition therefore you got random misfires. Also gases smother the combustion like the EGR does (is like having a stuck open an EGR valve) making a colder exhaust and the O2 sensor detects a Rich Mix. Traps the exhaust heat therefore increasing the engine temp. Gases can not escape, so poor performance and/or bad idle. MAP fails since backed up exhaust can hinder intake vacuum. Transmission does not shifts right since poor vacuum is giving sense of false engine load and the engine can not climb RPMs enough to get to the next gear.

You see, you could be chasing your tail thinking is a bad sensor while the car is trying to keep running.

Thanks very much for the info, I will look into it tomorrow. Tried taking it 4 miles to the store tonight, just to see how it would work. Drove fine there but would not start after. After cooling for 2 hours it started and got me home with one or two hiccups.
Thanks again.

If I straight tube and eliminate the cat, could I run this through for several miles and evaluate? It seems as though sometimes, O2 sensors account for a lot of important info and other times not so much.

I would be concerned with the cam sensor fault rather than gutting convertors and o2 sensors, a erractic or no cam signal will cause issues you describe.

Should there be any oil on the reluctor wheel and sensor surface? Because there is a film every time I take the sensor out. Maybe I have a bad seal leaking oil onto the sensor and reluctor? The car has 182,000 miles on it. Again the code is 341, camshaft pos. sensor A Bank 1 CKT range/performance.

yea there should be oil on the sensor. the sensor gets it signal from either the cam or the timing gear and both are lubricated with oil. have you checked the sensor for faults? with it running bad that often should be easy to find.dont think the part is that much $ just try one if you are unable to check.

Yes, this is a new sensor.

If you can accommodate a straight tube for testing purposes it will be nice. The fact is, you have to break some, that is the worst part.

Put on new cat today, did not do the trick. Drove about 3-4 miles away from muffler shop and it started acting up agian, then shut down. no new codes have come up though, so far.

Pulled off cam sensor to check on magnet, fortunately mag was in perfect position to verify it had not fallen off. So I guess that could be ruled out.

Problem was wire connector to the back of ICM, replaced connector and car runs great again.

I'm having a similar problem. Could you please explain to a new guy what an ICM is?