2000 Honda (Isuzu Rodeo), showing codes P1441, P1290 & P0300

Hello all.. This is my first post.. I've seen some of these codes in other post for different vehicles but thought I would post this in case all these codes have something to do with each other.

I bought this Honda a month ago and shortly after the check engine light came on. I took it to the parts place and they read the code and told me to replace the water temp sensor, so I did. Later the light came back on and I took it back and ask them to give me a print out of the codes before I replace any parts. I have 135,000 miles on the car and now its reading codes P1441, P1290 & P0300. Oh by the way, the Catalytic Converter vibrates and makes a loud noise.....

Any ideas on how I should approach all these issues?

thanks
Scoot9

It's a honda Isuzu rodeo? what definitions do you have for the 2 specific faults? Is 1290 supposed to be an coolant sensor fault? 1441 I think is a purge emissions fault,

The p1290 has to do with the Elecronic Throttle Control NOT coolant temp. The p1441 is a evap system fault. This is why Code Readers should be BANNED from all AutoZone and Advance. Its one thing to read a code but another to read a code then sell a part on what they THINK it is. There is more to it than reading codes. They don't do nothing but waste your money on parts you do not need. Anyway without data it will be hard to fix this one.

I was trying to make a long story short. My car is a Honda Passport which is really a Isuzu Rodeo but with a Honda badge on it. The auto place that sold me the water temp sensor was Napa Autoparts. Then a week later I took it to AutoZone had the codes cleared (I pressed the button) and after the light came back on 3 days later I took it back to AutoZone and had then to print out the Codes it was showing.

thanks
Scoot

Was not trying to hammer you Scoot! Just tired af parts houses diagnose cars instead of selling parts. How does it run is the throttle response good?

No offense taken asecmt. I agree with what you were saying anyway. I appreciate your help and any advice.

The throttle response is good most of the time. However, I have had a few times when the idle would go so slow it would cut off and it also has raced high for a short period.

Thanks
Scoot

Ascemt is exactly right! Parts stores are in the business of selling parts not fixing or diagnosing cars. With the poor quality that alot aftermarket sensors are known for even when the code reader guess is right it still falls through because the brands they sell suck! almost 100% of the time the money on a part you don't need is better spent on a proper diagnsotic by a competent tech. Or for that matter an alldata subscritption so that you can check for any tsbs or known failures with the car you're working on before buying parts. That's the beauty of taking it to a real repair centre is that if they have half a brain they'll check websites like NAPAFIX, IATN, D-tips etc for known pattern failures and bulletins before ordering any parts. Almost all dealers all do this which is why I stand by my opinion that they do fix it right the first time most of the time
more often then most. Although alot of you people on here have real chips on your shoulders about dealers so I'll leave it at that!

And yeah a malfunctioning electronic throttle body could cause the symptons you're describing. It may be as simple as a cleaning or a recalibration but I doubt it can be recalibrated without seeing the dealer! For the record used car lots do not have the best record of employing or utilizing the best diagnostic techs!