1998 neon P0201,P0202,P0302.P0300

i have just bought my first dodge neon and i have a few codes that came up.i know what they are but dont know what could be causing the trouble.
its a 1998 neon 2.0 SOHC 4 door auto 120,000 miles.it has a rough idle and even worse when ever its in gear.it stumbles and jerks when at a steady speed.when i give it gas it seems to run pretty good.it has been hit in the driver side headlight.i have changed plugs, wires,ASD relay,cleaned the TB and i have checked for vac. leaks. changed air filter,and it has not changed a bit.i can pull off the injector connectors on #1 and # 2 injectors and not have much change in the way it runs.if i do the same for #4 and 3 its wants to die,so i know 3 and 4 are working it just 1 and 2. what could cause this.
and can carbon tracking on the plugs or wires cause a bad idle?
the first set of wires i bought kept popping up out of the plug and that is what caused the misfires i do believe.i bought a sencond pair of wires (duralast i think) they dont pop up,but i have been reading that the duralast wires are crap should i step up the wires?

The problem is in your injectors that´s why is causing the missfires, forget checking other alternative problems, like sparks, plugs, filters..

You should start first checking those 2 injectors and its harness. Check the injector harness/wire for proper fitting or dammaged wires..

Keep posted

i did check the injectors with a ohm meter and they all read around 12 to 13 .i do believe its in the wiring somewhere and i dont know jack about wiring.

and when i did a self check with the codes i did get a code 42 like no voltage detected at ASD relay.but when i had it read with a scanner that code did not come up.but i did replace the asd relay.

start with new wires and plugs from the dealer,, carbon tracks mean misfires so don't waste your time trying to change on without the other!
Unplugging injectors that way isn't going to tell you much. Be sure the timing belt is lined up correctly and check that the egr is working as it should. You could ohm out the coil but i doubt it's that, the wiring could be bad between the crank sensor and the coil though

i have new wires and plugs.plulled them today and i did not see any carbon tracking.i changed the PCV valve and it now runs rougher . i just dont understand this car at all.would it be a good idea to put in a new wiring harness?and i know that it is running on two cylinders when at idle,but when i give it gas it seems to run on all 4.all i know is its starting to piss me off.this is why i always ran chevy. i will have another go at it tomorrow and if i can get it going right its off to the repair shop with it.

You likely have a corroded or damaged injector electrical firing wire . If it was plugs only the P0200 codes would not come up.

Trace the wires from the injector back to the harness plug , you will need an assistant to gently wiggle the wires, (while you test for continuity at each end) methodically along the entire route until you find the fault.It could be corrosion inside the insulation ,which can eventually break the conductor. It could be the insulation is failed & is shorting to somewhere & cutting out the firing pulse. It could be corrosion or bad connection in the terminal plugs at one end or other. If the damage is not obvious it would likely pay off to take the vehicle into somewhere with the correct diagnostic equipment to quickly isolate the faulty circuit condition.
Good luck,
Aeroman.

if the timing belt is shiftted it won't fire all 4 coils!

well i tested the wires going to the injectors with a noid light and they all show that the circuit is good.but here is one thing that i did today ,i ran the car at 65mph and it runs pretty smooth but with a little miss or it seems,but when i turned on my a/c it started to run very poorly,stumbleing,bucking.so i think that what ever the a/c is doing to cause the car to run very bad is prob. going to be my problem.maybe something to to with my vacc. or EGR vavle.

Lots of neons get a real shake when the a/c is turned on at idle, especailly when the compressor clutch and compressor get a little tight. There's software updates to address this but It's not uncommon to feel the miss the most at idle under those conditions! Assuming the timing belt is correct but you don't seem to want to check it so! Noid lights don't confirm that the injector is firing just that the signal is getting to them!

its not that i dont want to check the timing,i just dont think that it is the problem.and if my injectors were not firing it would not run smooth after i give it a little gas and get it out of idle,it would run like crap all the time.it runs great when ever i am giving it gas its only when its in idle or whenever i turn on the a/c when driving.i used the noid light cause of my codes saying i have a problem with my circuits,which i dont.i will be putting in a new EGR and new injectors tomorrow.and hope that it does the trick.

the injector codes are for the circuits not for the injectors, the injectors are wasted money! And yes if the belt timing is out it will smooth out under more throttle because as the injector on time increases and more fuel is injectted it runs richer and it's not as easily felt, The egr is a reasonable guess and new injectors shouldn't make it run worse but the codes aren't because of failled injectors unless each one was open circuit or shorted, The asd circuit is wired into the injector drivers so I'd be going back and look beyond just a new relay and check it's circuit for high resistance on the ground side of the injectors, Those neons used to melt the wiring going to the coil pack on the egr tube and the coil pack wiring is asd circuit as well! As is the crank sensor, cam sensor etc! lots of problems on them as well with the pcms and the wiring from them and the harness under the fuse box!

ok sounds to me like you know alot about the neon.i am old school chevy and this is my first computer ran car.so how would i go about checking the resistance on the ground side of the injectors?and are you saying i should really be checking the wiring harness?and why would i get a code that has something to do with the injectors when the current going to the injectors are working fine?thats why i tested the connectors going to the injectors with the noid light just to make sure that it was getting fire to the injectors,which it does.i just dont understand about the a/c. why its running alot worse when i turn it on while i am driving.it does'nt seem to really effect it if its in idle,only while driving.and how hard is it to check the timing belt?

Okay it takes way less current to light a noid light versus moving an armature in an injector for one! Secondly yeah I know alot about Neons because I work on them all day every day! You need a good dvom and a wiring diagram and you have to know how to use it. Next you need a haynes or chilton manual for the car. it will tell you how to check the belt, wiring etc!

have you considered a head gasket pehaps them 2.0 are known to have that problem good luck its a dodge