Anyway, here is the situation. I cleaned the sensor, bought a new MAF, checked the hoses, disconnected everything save the MAF on the inlet hose, checked the wires, checked the voltage, checked the ohms, ran without the air filter, and still after every test the code comes back immediately after reseting it.
The car seems to be running fine, but from what I have learned that means nothing with this code.
I compared the ohms from the old/new sensors and they are within a 0.01 of each other.
All the hoses can hold a vacuum.
I have ~14v at the wiring harness, I read somewhere that it should be 2.5 but I dont see how this is possible.
why do you think 2.5 isn't possible? lots of sensors work on a 5 volt reference to them with a voltage of less than 5 being sent back as a signal to the pcm!
So it could be a pcm problem? The 2.5v info came from a generic MAF troubleshooting guide. VW might use battery voltage (which is the reading I was getting).
It could be a MAF wire/harness failure.
Start by checking the MAF harness; you said you are having battery voltage supply so the failure could be in the other supply wires, check in all the MAF harness how many wires are there, the problem could be in the other MAF wires, check if some wire is not shortted or broken between the main harness up to the final MAF harness, check wire continuity. Does all the wires have continuity between the MAF and the computer?
Also most of the MAF are supplied with 1 or 2 ground wires, you must check if one of these ground wires are not shortted (you always would reed a negative signal on these wire, but if it is shortted you will not notice eventhough you are reading a negative signal ) so the only way to check these ground signal is to visually follow all the ground wire and check if it is loosen or broken in some part of the engine. For me it sounds like you are having a loosen or broken MAF ground wire, or the reference wire..
Check both of these wires, the reference wire and all the ground wires (you can have more than one) for shortted, loosen or broken.. ¡¡¡¡
Help! I have the same problem as the one posted last Fall. My'98 VR6 has an orange check engine light coming on. The OBD code reads P0102 (MAF low input). I read battery voltage (13.8V) on pins 1 to 3 on the MAF wires. Is this what is expected? The book says voltage should be seen on the pins, but it doesn't say what the voltage should be. The voltage also doesn't change with RPM. I took the MAF sensor out of the intake and cleaned it with CRC MAF cleaner. It looks better, but there was no change in the Engine light coming on and the same code comes back (P0102). Does anyone know what else I can test before blowing $300+ on a MAF sensor? Thanks.
MAF on VW have a high failure rate. Happens alot. With your scan tool watch your MAF g/s reading should be 4 to 4.5 g per second at idle, 10 to 15 g per second at 2500 RPM with no-load, over 100 grams/sec at 45 MPH throttle fully depressed. Even replacement MAF parts have a high failure rate. Best to get a dealer part, although they've been known to be bad right out of the box a couple times.
I only have a cheap OBDII tester and I don't think I can read the MAF readings. Do I need a VW VAG tester to do this? Is there a resistance check I can do on the MAF. The car has 100K on it and the MAF is likely original (bought the car with 23K), but $300+ for a new MAF is steep. Beatingsouls said that he changed the MAF and it didn't help. Do you think he had one of the many bad parts out there? Thanks again, G
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