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 Post subject: Need Help P0172 P0171 P0175
PostPosted: Tue May 29, 2007 6:12 pm 
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I have a 99 Chrystler Sebring LXI automatic. I am having trouble with the engine. After roughly 2 1/2 hours of driving its is puttering very bad. So bad its having trouble changing gears. Before the 2 1/2 hours of driving, it is perfectly fine. I had it scanned and the following codes came up: PO0171, PO0172, PO0175. I just had a busted battery replaced while having these problems. I also replaced my spark plugs and wires just before I noticed it had these problems.
Can anyone tell me what these codes mean? Anything would help.

THANKS!


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 Post subject: Need Help P0172 P0171 P0175 
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PostPosted: Wed May 30, 2007 6:01 am 
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Location: Orleans Ontario Canada
2.5 v6?


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PostPosted: Wed May 30, 2007 6:09 am 
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Yes 2.5 V6 automatic.


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PostPosted: Wed May 30, 2007 10:43 am 
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check the egr, the fuel pressure! 02's and the timing! recheck the plenum gasket as well after having removed it for the tune-up you may have a leak!


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PostPosted: Wed May 30, 2007 10:58 am 
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Where is the plenum gasket located at?


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PostPosted: Wed May 30, 2007 11:05 am 
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I don't know why you'd have a P0171, and a P0172 at the same time, because 171 indicates a lean condition and 172 indicates a rich condition on bank 1. That makes no sense. Something has happened since the work was done. Take it back to the shop and ask them to look at it again and check their work. As Comp said, it could be the plenum leaking that caused the rich codes to set, but doesn't explain the lean code present.
weird.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed May 30, 2007 1:49 pm 
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Well, I had it scanned at a discount auto parts store. This was before I noticed the busted battery. Could it be possible that the battery grounding out caused the scanner to read non realistic readings and give me my problem I was having? Second, why would the check engine light come back on the next day after replacing the battery?

I am not too familiar with these newer model cars, but more with the earlier models---- do these engines have a time set for the check engine light to come on after a certain amount of miles for a tune up?


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PostPosted: Wed May 30, 2007 2:01 pm 
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If the plenum gasket is the gasket connecting the upper and lower intake manifold, then I did not replace it when I changed out the spark pulgs and wires. I had to take off the intake manifold when I changed them out, but the gasket looked to be in good shape so I didn't bother replacing it.


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PostPosted: Wed May 30, 2007 2:08 pm 
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You always need to replace that gasket when the plenum is removed! It's only paper, not reuseable!


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PostPosted: Wed May 30, 2007 2:17 pm 
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http://images.google.com/imgres?imgurl= ... n%26sa%3DG

I am not sure if this link will work, but is this a picture of what you are talking about and is plenum another word for intake manifold? How could not replacing that cause it to putter to the extreme every 2 hours.


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PostPosted: Wed May 30, 2007 3:07 pm 
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Location: Orleans Ontario Canada
because if it has a vaccum leak form there it will run really bad becuase the pcm can't correct the fuel mixture enough to keep it running properly


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PostPosted: Wed May 30, 2007 3:26 pm 
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Yes, and replacing your battery won't clear any codes in the computer. The PCM retains a memory evenwith the battery disconnected. In fact, continuous codes will reset immediately after startup if the problematic condition exists at the time of startup.
The MIL light is an emmissions light ONLY. If it sets(illuminates) that means there is a problem with the EPA mandated emmissions system(i.e. that's bad for breathing)

It has nothing to do with tuning up the car. Like Compton said- replace the gasket every time. Double check your work, make sure nothing was disturbed. I know that those upper intake manifold gaskets aren't the easiest thing in the world to replace, as there are alot of sensors and solenoids attached to it. It would be easy for a novice to misplace or forget one. Double check. If it didn't run like that before the work was done, then go back and look again. Start with upper intake plenum gasket.


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PostPosted: Wed May 30, 2007 5:32 pm 
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OK, I will do that. Thank you very much for your help. The both of you.

How much do you know about transmissions? I have an 95 Mitsubishi Eclipse RS automatic. The Sebring replaced this car. The eclipse is having transmission problems. I had it rebuilt by AAmco transmissions and a year later it broke on me, right BEFORE the warranty went out-----they would not fix it..... for free.... Anyways, it jerks out of gear and gets stuck in third. You can shut it off the car and start it up and will work fine, it will jerk out of gear and get stuck in third when it feels like it. I think it might be the modular control valve, what do you think?


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PostPosted: Thu May 31, 2007 7:03 am 
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Location: Orleans Ontario Canada
I'd have to check the model number of the tranny but it sounds more like a fault with a sensor then a mechanical problem! If it's the same tranny that was in the 95 neons then they had alot of issues of the kickdowns seizing up and they would jump from gear to neutral if they were seized enough!


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PostPosted: Thu May 31, 2007 10:02 am 
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I think I remember a similar problem. After watching the solenoid pack on my scope, i remember it showed the pack was trying to switch properly, but it wouldn't downshift. Changing the pack fixed the shifting problem. But, I don't specialize in transmissions, so........
Usually the Eclipses I see are all driven pretty hard, and the transaxles don;t last long when abused.


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